Joe Walker discovers Yosemite Ridge

 by REBrammer

When John Jacob Astor organized a fur company to fulfill the commercial vision of Thomas Jefferson he also fulfilled Jefferson's political vision. Astor based his organization solidly on sea-water                  transportation, though he also sent an over land expedition to reconnoiter other areas and to check the results of Lewis and Clark. It was not unrealistic to hope that over land routes existed across the  "Far West" from the Missouri to the Pacific.

Astor traded furs, teas and sandalwood with Canton in China, and greatly benefited from it. He had his sights on owning a west coast port like San Francisco and needed someone qualified to meet with the Mexican government in California.

Joe Walker was one of those hardy sons of enterprise whom America abounds, who for the love of dangerous adventure; forsake the quiet monotonous life of the civilized world for the excitement of a sojourn in the far west. For many years he traded with Indians on the Platte and Green rivers, winning golden opinions from the poor Indians for his honesty and fair dealing, and the greatest popularity from the hardy trappers and mountaineers for his firmness of character and personal bravery.

The world of equestrian travel seldom recognizes international borders, being content to urge its mounted adherents to ride where they will. Few people better symbolize this ancient philosophy of unrestricted freedom than Joseph R. Walker. His life is a true tale of rough adventure thru the dangerous and unexplored places of the Spanish West that was still politically unstable and geographically challenging.

In the absence of any evidence (traditionary or otherwise) on which to found a hypothesis as to the probable cause of the migration of Captain Walker to the West; within a short time he managed to acquire the nonexistent job as “Official Explorer for the US Government”.

 Walker’s gained knowledge from travels, through Indian lands on horseback, was gathered from his years spent exploring the untouched interior, visiting unknown tribes, and making careful observations of native life in a host of territories.

From Jefferson to Jackson it was no secret that the US Government had designs on acquiring the Far West, be it from the Spanish, the Mexicans, the British or the Native American Indian. To accomplish this...expert intelligence was needed (discrepancies are written about why) but in 1832, US Army Captain Benjamin Bonneville took a leave of absence from the military and followed a 110 men expedition into the Wyoming Territory, funded partially by John Jacob Astor supposedly to trap and trade.

 By August of 1833 Captain Joseph R. Walker trekked to California with 58 to 60 of the most vicious, savage & skilled mountain men of the day. Most historians omit the 18 or so...rag-tagged horse thieves lead by Bill Williams who would separate from the main party and head up the Carson River and the Truckee River in October 1833.

Over View to the West

The date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite was about the 21st of March, 1851 (James Savage). We were afterward assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of his band, that this was the first visit ever made to this valley by white men. Ten-ie-ya said that a small party of white men once crossed the mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to see it;

Diary of Zenas Leonard

Walker's clerk Zenas Leonard formally of Clearfield County, PA kept a fairly minute journal of every incident that occurred but unfortunately, a part of his narrative was stolen from him by hostile Indians, still, however, he was enabled to replace the most important events by having access to the journal kept by the commander of the expedition (Walker). This will help to explain any irregularities in the story.

Captain Walker was reported (1881) to have traveled by way of the Humboldt River and the Carson desert.

Both the north & south Carson Lakes, as well as Walker Lake are in the same footprint of the ancient Lake Lahontan which was a large endorheic lake that existed during the ice age 12,700 years ago. Together they were all part of the Lakes. After 5 weeks of exploring and mapping the Walker party arrived at Bridgeport, Mono County, California.

It was in this area that the Bill Williams group was detached as Stephen Meek admits to the discovery of the Truckee River, the Carson River and Donner/Truckee Lake.

On the 10th of October we left these Indians and built rafts out of rushes to convey us across the river, when we left the Lakes and continued our course in the direction of a large mountain, which was in sight, and which we could see was covered with snow on the summit.

This can only be Mono Lake. Crossing the East Walker River it is only around 12 miles to Mono Lake. Several streams from Mount Dana, fed Mono Lake.

The water in this lake is similar to lie, and tastes much like pearlash.

William Brewer of the California Geological Survey stated this in 1863:

The waters are clear and very heavy. When still, it looks like oil, it is so thick, and it is not easily disturbed. The water feels slippery to the touch and will wash grease from the hands, even when cold, more readily than common hot water and soap. I washed some woolens in it, and it was easier and quicker than any "suds" I ever saw. . . I took a bath in the lake; one swims very easily in the heavy water, but it feels slippery on the skin and smarts the eyes.

There is also a great quantity of pummice stone floating on the surface of the water, and the shore is covered with them.

Pummice is a volcanic rock that is a solidified frothy lava. Pumice is considered a glass because it has no crystal structure. Pumice varies in density according to the thickness of the solid material between the bubbles; many samples float in water.

The next day we travelled up this river towards the mountain, where we encamped for the night.

There are three small (so-called) rivers that travel up and due west from Mono Lake; Walker Creek, Lee Vining Creek and Mill Creek.

This mountain is very high, as the snow extends down the side nearly half way — the mountain runs North and South.

The Dana Plateau runs North and South.

In the morning we dispatched hunters to the mountain on search of game and also to look out for a pass over the mountain, as our provisions were getting scarce — our dried buffaloe meat being almost done.

After prowling about all day, our hunters returned in the evening, bringing the unwelcome tidings that they had not seen any signs of game in all their ramblings, and what was equally discouraging, that they had seen no practicable place for crossing the mountain.

 They, however, had with them a young colt and camel/mule, which they secured by the natives taking fright and running off, when the hunters came in sight.

The next morning, having eaten the last of our dried buffaloe meat, it was decided that the colt should be killed and divided equally to each man.

That was one lucky mule because you never want to eat your mule

Our situation was growing worse every hour, and something required to be done to extricate ourselves.

Our horses were reduced very much from the fatigues of our journey and light food, having travelled through a poor, sandy country extending from the buffaloe country of the Rocky Mountains, to our present encampment, a distance of about 1200 miles, without encountering a single hill of any consequence, (with the exception of the one in which Barren river heads, and that we went around,) and so poor and bare that nothing can subsist on it with the exception of rabbits — these being the only game we had met with since we had left the buffaloe country, with the exception of one or two antelopes.

Notwithstanding these plains forbids the support of animals of every description, yet I do not believe that we passed a single day without seeing Indians, or fresh signs, and some days hundreds of them.

Today we sent out several scouting parties to search out a pass over the mountain.

Capt. Walker, Nidever and myself started out together.

After getting part of the way up the mountain we came to a grove of timber, where the mountain was too steep for our horses, and we left them, and travelled on foot.

 Nidever was separated from us, when two Indians made their appearance, but as soon as they saw us, they took to flight and run directly towards Nidever, who at once supposed they had been committing some mischief with us, fired, and, as they were running one behind the other, killed them both at one shot.

Good thing Jed Smith was not in charge because 90% of the Americans would have been killed. Walker only lost one man in 50 years.

After this unpleasant circumstance we went back to our horses, and from thence to camp.

 Mr. Nidever was very sorry when he discovered what he had done.

Somewhere along the line they hired two Indian guides, 1 Ute/Paiute & 1 Mono

 In the evening the balance of our scouting parties returned, but none of them had killed any game.

One of them had found an Indian path, which they thought led over the mountain — whereupon it was resolved that in the morning we would take this path, as it seemed to be our only prospect of preservation.

 Accordingly, at an early hour the next morning we started on our journey along the foot of the mountain in search of the path discovered on the previous day, and found it.

Most likely Mono Pass especially if Indians with horses were using it. Tioga Pass road is also a possible path.

On examination we found that horses travelled it, and must of course come from the west.

This gave us great encouragement, as we were very fearful we would not be able to get our horses over at all.

 Here we encamped for the night.

 In the morning we started on our toilsome journey.

 Ascending the mountain we found to be very difficult from the rocks and its steepness.

The trail up to Mono Pass, past Walker Lake (named after Jo Walker) is very steep too. They are most likely near South Sardine Lake. The creek from Walker Lake to Mono Lake is called Walker Creek.

This day we made but poor speed, and encamped on the side of the mountain.

October 16. (6 days) Continued our course until in the afternoon, when we arrived at what we took for the top, where we again encamped, but without any thing to eat for our horses, as the ground was covered with a deep snow, which from appearance, lays on the North side of the peaks, the whole year around.

These peaks are generally covered with rocks and sand, — totally incapable of vegetation; except on the South side, where grows a kind of Juniper or Gin shrub, bearing a berry tasting similar to gin.

Here we passed the night without anything to eat except these gin berries, and some of the insects from the lake described above, which our men had got from the Indians.

The insects were most likely the Alkali fly that Paiutes called the pupae “kutsavi,” and during the summer would harvest it and use is as a main source of food and the berries the Western Juniper (Juniperus occidentalis) that are found in this area & grows at 9840 feet.

We had not suffered much from cold for several months previous to this; but this night, surrounded as we were with the everlasting snows on the summit of this mountain, the cold was felt with three fold severity.

In taking a view the next morning of the extensive plains through which we had travelled, its appearance is awfully sublime.

 As far as the eye can reach, you can see nothing but an unbroken level, tiresome to the eye to behold.

To the West the aspect is truly wonderful.

The sight meets with nothing but a poor sandy plain, extending from the base of the Rocky mountains to the level below — interposed with several rivers winding their way, here and there forming innumerable lakes, having their margins thinly adorned with a few withering and fading cottonwood trees — where the water ceases to flow, and sinks into the sand.

But this is not all.

The rivers which head in this mountain, all lead towards the East, as if to meet those from the Rocky mountains, and likewise empty into the lakes.

The next morning it was with no cheerful prospect that each man prepared himself for travelling, as we had nothing to eat worth mentioning.

As we advanced, in the hollows sometimes we would encounter prodigious quantities of snow.

When we would come to such places, a certain portion of the men would be appointed alternately to go forward and break the road, to enable our horses to get through; and if any of the horses would get swamped, these same men were to get them out.

 In this tedious and tiresome manner we spent the whole day without going more than 8 or 10 miles.

In some of these ravines where the snow is drifted from the peaks, it never entirely melts, and may be found at this season of the year, from ten to one hundred feet deep.

From appearance it never melts on the top, but in warm weather the heap sinks by that part melting which lays next the ground.

This day's travel was very severe on our horses, as they had not a particle to eat.

 They began to grow stupid and stiff, and we began to despair of getting them over the mountain.

We encamped this night on the south side of one of these peaks or ridges without any thing to eat, and almost without fire.

To add to the troubles and fatigues which we encountered in the day time, in getting over the rocks and through the snow, we had the mortification this evening to find that some of our men had become almost unmanageable, and were desirous of turning back and retracing our steps to the buffaloe country!

The voice of the majority, which always directs the movements of such a company, would not pacify them; nor had the earnest appeals of our captain any effect.

 The distance was too great for them to undertake without being well provided, and the only way they could be prevented, was by not letting them have any of the horses or ammunition.

Two of our horses were so much reduced that it was thought they would not be able to travel in the morning at all, whereupon it was agreed that they should be butchered for the use of the men.

 This gave our men fresh courage, and we went to bed this night in better spirits than we had done for a long time.

 Some of the men had fasted so long, and were so much in want of nourishment, that they did not know when they had satisfied the demands of nature, and eat as much and as eagerly of this black, tough, lean, horse flesh, as if it had been the choicest piece of beef steak.

In the morning, after freely partaking of the horse meat, and sharing the remainder to each man, we renewed our journey, now and then coming onto an Indian path, but as they did not lead in the direction we were going, we did not follow them — but the most of the distance we this day travelled, we had to encounter hills, rocks and deep snows.

This is where the Tuolumne River heads northwest near Lembert Dome toward Glen Aulin. As Joe Walker's obituary stated it: "His first attempt to descend to the west was near the headwaters of the Tuolumne, which he found impossible but working a little to the South west he struck the waters of the Merced and got into the Valley of the San Joaquin."

 The snow in most of the hollows we this day passed through, looks as if it had remained here all summer, as eight or ten inches from the top it was packed close and firm — the top being loose and light, having fell only a day or two previous.

 About the middle of the afternoon we arrived at a small Lake or pond, where we concluded to encamp, as at this pond we found a small quantity of very indifferent grass, but which our horses cropped off with great eagerness.

 Here we spent the night, having yet seen nothing to create a hope that we had arrived near the opposite side of the mountain — and what was equally as melancholy, having yet discovered no signs of game.

The next morning we resumed our labour, fortunately finding less snow and more timber, besides a number of small lakes, and some prospect of getting into a country that produced some kind of vegetation.

 The timber is principally pine, cedar and red wood, mostly of a scrubby and knotty quality.

After travelling a few miles, further however, than any other day since we had reached the top of the mountain, we again encamped on the margin of another small lake, where we also had the good fortune to find some pasture for our horses.

This evening it was again decided to kill three more of our horses which had grown entirely worthless from severe travelling and little food.

The next morning several parties were dispatched on search of a pass over the mountain, and to make search for game; but they all returned in the evening without finding either.

The prospect at this time began to grow some-what gloomy and threaten us with hard times again.

 We were at a complete stand.

 No one was acquainted with the country, nor no person knew how wide the summit of this mountain was.

October 21^st. — We had travelled for five days since we arrived at what we supposed to be the summit — were now still surrounded with snow and rugged peaks — the vigour of every man almost exhausted - nothing to give our poor horses, which were no longer any assistance to us in travelling, but a burthen, for we had to help the most of them along as we would an old and feeble man.

This mountain must be near as high as the main chain of the Rocky mountains — at least a person would judge so from the vast quantity of snow with which it is covered, and the coldness of the air.

The descent from the Rocky mountains to this is but trifling and supposed by all the company not to be greater than we had ascended this mountain from the plain — though we had no means of ascertaining the fact.

It is true, however, that the vast plain through which we had travelled was almost perfectly level, on part of which the water gradually descended to the West, and on the other towards the East.

This is traveling down Tuolumne Meadows

 Our situation was growing more distressing every hour, and all we now thought of, was to extricate ourselves from this inhospit-able region; and, as we were perfectly aware, that to travel on foot was the only way of succeeding, we spent no time in idleness — scarcely stopping in our journey to view an occasional specimen of the wonders of nature's handy-work.

We travelled a few miles every day, still on the top of the mountain, and our course continually obstructed with snow hills and rocks.

 Here we began to encounter in our path, many small streams which would shoot out from under these high snow-banks, and after running a short distance in deep chasms which they have through ages cut in the rocks, precipitate themselves from one lofty precipice to another, until they are exhausted in rain below.

They see water falls but could not have seen the valley floor.

- Some of these precipices appeared to us to be more than a mile high.

 Some of the men thought that if we could succeed in descending one of these precipices to the bottom, we might thus work our way into the valley below — but on making several attempts we found it utterly impossible for a man to descend, to say nothing of our horses.

We were then obliged to keep along the top of the dividing ridge between two of these chasms which seemed to lead pretty near in the direction we were going — which was West, — in passing over the mountain, supposing it to run north & south.

In this manner we continued until the 25^th October, without any particular occurrence, except that of our horses dying daily — the flesh of which we preserved for food.

Our course was very rough & tiresome, having to encounter one hill of snow and one ledge of rocks after another.

On the 25^th October every man appeared to be more discouraged and down-spirited than ever, and I thought that our situation would soon be beyond hope if no prospect of getting from the mountain would now be discovered.

This day we sent out several parties on discoveries, who returned in the evening without bringing the least good news, except one man, who was last coming, having separated from his companions, brought a basket full of acorns, to camp.

 These were the first had seen since we left the State of Missouri.

These nuts our hunter had got from an Indian who had them on his back travelling as though he was on a journey across the mountain, to the East side.

 — When the Indian seen our hunter he dropped his basket of provision and run for life.

These nuts caused no little rejoicing in our camp, not only on account of their value as food, but because they gave us the gratifying evidence that a country mild and salubrious enough to produce acorns was not far distant, which must be vastly different from any we had passed through for a long time.

We now felt agreeably surprised that we had succeeded so far and so prosperously, in a region of many miles in extent where a native Indian could find nothing to eat in traversing the same route, but acorns.

These nuts are quite different from those in Missouri — being much larger and more palatable.

They are from 1 1/2 to 3 inches in length, and about 3/4 in diameter, and when roasted in the ashes or broiled, are superior to any chestnuts I ever eat — (though a person subsisting upon very lean horse meat for several days is hardly capable of judging with precision in a case of this kind.)

The next morning we resumed our journey somewhat revived with the strong expectation that after a few days more tedious travelling, we would find ourselves in a country producing some kind of game by which we might recruit our languid frames, and pasture to resuscitate the famished condition of our horses.

We still found snow in abundance, but our course was not so much obstructed with rocks as formerly.

 In two or three days we arrived at the brink of the mountain. (October 27-28)

This at first was a happy sight, but when we approached close, it seemed to be so near perpendicular that it would be folly to attempt a descent.

In looking on the plain below with the naked eye, you have one of the most singular prospects in nature; from the great height of the mountain the plain presents a dim yellow appearance; — but on taking a view with the spy glass we found it to be a beautiful plain stretched out towards the west until the horizon presents a barrier to the sight.

From the spot where we stood to the plain beneath, must at least be a distance of three miles, as it is almost perpendicular, a person cannot look down without feeling as if he was wafted to and fro in the air, from the giddy height.

A great many were the surmises as to the distance and direction to the nearest point of the Pacific.

 Captain Walker, who was a man well acquainted with geography, was of the opinion that it was not much further than we could see with the aid of our glass, as the plain had the appearance of a sea shore.

 Here we encamped for the night, and sent men out to discover some convenient passage down towards the plain — who returned after an absence of a few hours and reported that they had discovered a pass or Indian trail which they thought would answer our purpose, and also some signs of deer and bear, which was equally as joyful news — as we longed to have a taste of some palatable food at the path.

The next morning after pursuing our course a few miles along the edge of the mountain top we arrived at the path discovered by our men, and immediately commenced the descent, gladly leaving the cold and famished region of snow behind.

The mountain was extremely steep and difficult to descend, and the only way we could come any speed was by taking a zigzag direction, first climbing along one side and then turning to the other, until we arrived at a ledge or precipice of rocks, of great height, and extending eight or ten miles along the mountain — where we halted and sent men in each direction to ascertain if there was any possibility of getting over this obstruction.

In the afternoon of the same day our men returned without finding any safe passage thro' the rocks — but one man had succeeded in killing a small deer, which he carried all the way to camp on his back — this was dressed, cooked and eat in less time than a hungry wolf would devour a lamb.

Hazel Green

This was the first game larger than a rabbit we had killed since the 4th of August when we killed the last buffaloe near the Great Salt Lake, and the first we had eat since our dried meat was exhausted, (being 14 days,) during which time we lived on stale and forbidden horse flesh.

 I was conscious that it was not such meat as a dog would feast on, but we were driven to extremes and had either to do this or die.

It was the most unwholesome as well as the most unpleasant food I ever eat or ever expect to eat — and I hope that no other person will ever be compelled to go through the same.

It seemed to be the greatest cruelty to take your rifle, when your horse sinks to the ground from starvation, but still manifests a desire and willingness to follow you, to shoot him in the head and then cut him up & take such parts of their flesh as extreme hunger alone will render it possible for a human being to eat. This we done several times and it was the only thing that saved us from death.

 24 of our horses died since we arrived on top of the mountain — 17 of which we eat the best parts.

When our men returned without finding any passage over the rocks, we searched for a place that was as smooth and gradual in the descent as possible, and after finding one we brought our horses, and by fastening ropes round them let them down one at a time without doing them any injury.

After we got our horses and baggage all over the rocks we continued our course down the mountain, which still continued very steep and difficult.

 The circumstance of one of our men killing a deer greatly cheered the languid spirits of our hunters, and after we got safely over the rocks several of the men started out on search of game, although it was then near night.

The main body continued on down until we arrived at some green oak bushes, where we encamped for the night, to wait for our hunters, - who returned soon after dark well paid for their labour, having killed two large black tailed deer and a black bear, and all very fat and in good eating order.

 This night we passed more cheerful and in better heart than any we had spent for a long time. Our meat was dressed and well cooked, and every man felt in good order to partake of it.

In descending the mountain this far we have found but little snow, and began to emerge into a country which had some signs of vegetation — having passed thro' several groves of green oak bushes, &c.

 The principal timber which we came a cross, is Red-Wood, White Cedar and the Balsom tree.

We continued down the side of the mountain at our leisure, finding the timber much larger and better, game more abundant and the soil more fertile.

 Here we found plenty of oak timber, bearing a large quantity of acorns, though of a different kind from those taken from the Indian on the mountain top.

 In the evening of the 30^th October we arrived at the foot or base of this mountain — having spent almost a month in crossing over.

Along the base of this mountain it is quite romantic — the soil is very productive — the timber is immensely large and plenty, and game, such as deer, elk, grizzly bear and antelopes are remarkably plenty.

— From the mountain out to the plain, a distance varying from 10 to 20 miles, the timber stands as thick as it could grow and the land is well watered by a number of small streams rising here and there along the mountain.

In the last two days travelling we have found some trees of the Red-wood species, incredibly large — some of which would measure from 16 to 18 fathoms round the trunk at the height of a man's head from the ground.

On the 31st October we pursued our course towards the plain in a western direction.

— Now, that we had reached a country thickly filled with almost all kinds of game, our men and particularly those fond of hunting, were in fine spirits.

This day our company was much scattered, and we could hardly tell which was the main body, as the men were stretched over a large space of ground, all moving within each others hearing towards the plain.

After a walk of about fifteen miles we arrived at the margin of the woods, where we concluded to spend the remainder of the day and night.

 When our men all gathered together it was astonishing to see the quantity of game which they had collected — principally deer and bear.

Our hunters complained very much because there was no buffaloe here — as killing these animals afford the hunter such fine sport; and they would not believe anything else than that buffaloe inhabited this region until they had made several unsuccessful hunts — as the climate and soil is about the same, the grass equally as good and plenty, and the prairies and forests as extensive as those of the region of the Rocky Mountains.

But none of these animals have ever been found west of the Great Salt Lake, which is about three hundred miles west of the summit of the Rocky mountains.

On the following morning we directed our course across or rather along the plain, until we came to a large river heading in the mountain and wending its way through the plain.

This river presents more wonderful curiosities than any other stream we passed.

 Its bed lays very deep forming very high banks, even in smooth and level parts of the country; but where there is rocks its appearance is beyond doubt the most remarkable of any other water course.

Some places the rocks are piled up perpendicular to such a height that a man on top, viewed from the bed of the river, does not look larger than a small child.

From the appearance of these precipices it is not exaggerating to state that they may be found from a quarter to half a mile high — and many of them no wider at the top than at the bottom.

Through such places the river forces its way with great; rapidity, tossing pitching & foaming to such a degree that no Indian has had the courage to attempt to navigate it with his canoe.

 — When the water passes through these narrows it spreads out in a beautiful deep bay as if to repose after its turbulent dashing against the rocks immediately above, until it reaches the next rapids, when it again pitches forward.

After the feasting was at an end, Capt. Baggshaw gave us a description of the country to enable us to lay our plans accordingly.

 He said the nearest settlement was the town of St. Francisco, about forty miles north of our present encampment, situated on the south side of the Francisco Bay, formed by the river which we descended, which he calls Two Laries, or Bush river.

 It is about three-fourths of a mile wide at its mouth, and is considered a safe harbor for almost any quantity of vessels; and within 60 or 70 miles South of us is the town of Monterey, also Spanish, the capital of this province, & which is called Upper Calafornia.

More like 57 miles

 He also informed us that about 60 or 70 miles north of St. Francisco, and about 100 miles from our present position was a Russian settlement, which consists of about 150 families who settled in this country a few years ago for the purpose of catching sea otter, which are of great value, on account of the quality of the fur.

From him we also learned some further particulars concerning the mountain which had caused us so many hardships in crossing, parts of which was visible from the ocean, particularly the snow covered peaks.

This he called the Calafornia mountain, as it runs parallel with the coast for a great distance, commencing at the mouth of the Columbia river, and extending along the coast to the mouth of Red river, or Gulf of Calafornia, forming a beautiful country from the sea shore to the base of the mountain, and extending north and south a distance of about 6 or 700 miles of rich soil, well timbered and abundantly watered by innumerable small streams heading in the mountain and flowing toward the Father of Waters.

The next day Capt. Baggshaw took leave of us and started out on his trading expedition - appointing Monterey as the point where we were to meet in a few days.

This is more proof that something was going on

The next morning after the departure of the ship, we were all in readiness to start for Monterey, the Capital of the Province, which lays in a southern direction.

As travelling so near the water still continued difficult, we here concluded to strike out into the plain, where we found much better walking, the country being quite level, soil rich, and a few Indians.

On the evening of the 22d November we encamped at some rough hills near a small creek.

 In this neighborhood there are a great number of these hills, all of which are well covered with excellent timber, and abounding with all kinds of game except buffaloe.

The most of our company had become nearly bare-footed for want of moccasins, as we had wore out every thing of the kind in travelling from the Rocky mountains — and, as winter was approaching, and no one knowing what kind of a reception we would meet with among the Spaniards, it was advised that we should tarry here and provide ourselves with an abundant winter supply of shoes.

These cattle incline much to rough and hilly parts of the country, owing, it is supposed, to the Spaniards and Indians hunting them when found in the plains.

 23d November. This morning we directed our course across these hills.

We continued across the plain and arrived on the banks of a small creek which empties into the sea at the distance of 7 or 8 miles, where we encamped for the night.

Not long after we had halted, there was eight Spaniards arrived at our camp, from whom we found it as difficult to get information of any kind, as from most of the Indians.

 All our efforts to make them understand signs was unavailing, and not one of our company understood a word of Spanish. — They were fine portly looking men, but looked as if they had been cast from civilized society as long as ourselves.

They remained with us all night.

It is interesting that 8 Spaniards would show up to act as guides.

24^th November.  We set out this morning for Monterey accompanied by the Spaniards as guides, who piloted us to the house of a Mr. Gilroy, who had been a brave and dutiful Tar in his younger days, when he had learned to speak a little English.

1813 ordinary seaman (Jack Tar) John Gilroy/John Cameron, a Scotsman  jumped ship in Monterey.

— From this old man we gathered much useful information as to the country, climate, people, natives, &c. Here we concluded to remain for the night.

This old man was 40 years old

The old man showed every disposition to give us all the information he could, and treated us very kindly. We ascertained that we were within 35 miles of Monterey.

35 miles is correct

 In the morning we started in the direction of Monterey, intending to pass through the town of St. Juan or John which lay in the course we were going.

 Here we found the travelling much easier, as we now had some kind of roads to travel on, although they were far from being wagon roads — running through an extensive prairie of rich soil, with here and there a lonely hut built near some grove of timber or brook.

 Towards evening we arrived at St. Juan, which we now found to be a Spanish Missionary station for the establishment of the christian religion and civilization among the Indians.

San Juan Bautista

Here Capt. Walker deemed it prudent to halt for a few days, in order to ascertain the disposition of the people, & make further inquiries with respect to the country, &c., lest we might be considered as intruders and treated in a way that we would not much like.

 It was our desire to keep on peaceable terms with the Spaniards, at least no one desired to give the least offence of any kind — knowing that Spaniards and Indians had quite a different mode of carrying on a warfare.

We obtained privilege from the Priests to select a convenient place for grass, wood, water, &c., to pitch our encampment, and immediately commenced erecting a breast work, with which to defend ourselves in case we were attacked by Indians or anything else that chose to molest us.

Even the Priest were helpful to Captain Walker compared to Jed Smith who was thrown in the Monterey calaboose.

From information gained here, Capt. Walker thought it advisable to go no further into their country, or the inhabited parts of it, owing to the difficulty in getting pasture for our horses and provisions for ourselves — as there is no preparations of any kind made for the accommodation of travellers; besides the expense of living would be much less to remain here where game was plenty and grass good.

To-day Capt. Walker, after getting a passport, which is necessary for a stranger to have in passing from one ward or district to another, and which must be renewed by the Alcalde or Squire in each district, took two men and started for Monterey, where he intended presenting himself to the Governor, and asking the permission of his Excellency to pass the winter in his settlements, and to inform him where we were from, our business, intentions, &c.

St. Juan or St. John is beautifully situated on the banks of a small creek in a rich level plain, about 20 miles from the coast and about the same distance from Monterey, containing from six to seven hundred inhabitants —

On the first of December, Capt. Walker returned from Monterey, where he had met with a hospitable reception by the Governor and principal people in and about the Capital, and where he also again met with Capt. Baggshaw, who served as an interpretor for Capt. Walker and the Governor, as he was fully capable of fulfilling such an office.

In June of 1832 General Don José Figueroa was appointed military governor, or commandante-general and arrived in Monterey by January 1833. Before Walker's arrival Figueroa had just returned in September from a trip to the South to investigate the condition of the mission Indians. The principal people probably included Lieutenant Mariano Vallejo  the Commander of the Presidio of San Francisco and Thomas Larkin a prominent merchant & future American consul, special agent.

About this same time, Ewing Young in passing Temecula, made a side trip to San Pedro to talk things over with trading post operator Abel Stearns who had been banished from Monterey in 1831 by then governor Victoria. Young also left the sick John Warner in Los Angeles who would later establish the Warner Ranch and way station where the future General Stephen W. Kearney and the Army of the West, and Lieutenant Colonel Philip St. George Cooke's Mormon Battalion would encamp.

With the Governor, Capt. Walker succeeded in every thing he desired, having obtained permission to remain in the country during the approaching winter, to hunt and kill as much game as would support our company, and to trade as much with the Spaniards as we pleased, but were forbid trapping in the Indian lands or trading with the natives.

Ok, so what did Captain Walker offer the Governor

 The Spaniards manifest a warm friendship for the Indians under their jurisdiction, as those who were friendly towards us were constantly reminding us of the danger of wronging the Indians.

Here we remained until about the 18th of December, without anything occurring except the daily visits we received from the Spaniards and Indians, who were curious to know how we lived, and all about us.

They however, only found that we lived like they did themselves, any more than they lived in habitations built of wood, brick, mortar, &c. while we lived in huts made of skins of animals.

About this time Capt. Walker proposed to me to take a tramp through the settlements for the purpose of taking a view of the country, and the manners and customs of the inhabitants.

This was precisely what I had long been wanting.

Accordingly, Capt. W., two others and myself left the camp and steered to the south-east, intending to return through Monterey.

Total of 4 men and I would guess that one of these men was a local who knew his way around.

 The country thro' which we passed contained rich soil, tolerably well timbered, but thinly inhabited with a few Spaniards and Indians, who appeared to live there because they were not permitted to live any other place.

The dry season is occupied by the inhabitants in gathering the mules into large droves and driving them off to the market at Santa Fe, a distance of 12 or 1400 miles from this part of the coast, through a wild and desert country.

Here they meet with ready sale at a profitable price from the traders of Missouri, who repair to Santa Fee annually for that purpose.

These traders are generally well supplied with merchandize which they exchange at Santa Fee for gold and silver, and with these Calafornian traders for mules and Spanish hides.

The price of a mule at Santa Fe is generally from 6 to $10. - Merchandize is sold at a great advance, particularly silks, jewelry and groceries.

After travelling leisurely along through their country, which still continued thinly inhabited by these people, and passing two small missionary establishments, we arrived at a small town called St. Hose, or St. Joseph (Carmel by the Sea), about 10 miles south of Monterey, where we arrived on the 25th of December.

Mission San Antonio, Mission La Soledad, and Mission Carmelo.

In November 1834, Mexico's Secularization Laws (from August 1833) were ratified by governor José Figueroa, ending the mission system and allowing the sell all of all church lands. Father Vicente Sarría who baptized John Gilroy, died in May of 1835 at Mission La Soledad and was buried at Mission Antonio. Father Sarria could have been the un-named priest of Walker-Priest Valley fame. Walker-Priest Valley is only 40 miles from mission Soledad. As a fun fact...Governor Figueroa died in September of 1835.

18th of December- 25th of December = 7 days

This is also a missionary station, and the largest of any we had yet encountered, containing about 900 Indians, principally from the mountains.

This station is constructed and managed similar to that of St. Juan, except the church, which is much larger, and built with a greater display of the arts of civilization.

Here we remained for two days, employing our time in watching the proceedings of these Indians in their devotional exercises.

25 – 27 December 1833

 We then continued our journey and soon arrived at Monterey, which town is build on a beautiful situation on the south side of Monterey Bay — this Bay being formed by Kings river.

This is the Capital of Upper, or North Calafornia, and under the government of New Mexico.

Did Captain Walker report his findings to Governor Figueroa?

The town is small containing only about 30 or 40 dwelling houses, one church, one calaboose a part of which is used as a house of justice, or in other words, a court house, where the Governor transacts his public business, and a kind of a fort, built in a commanding situation on the edge of the bay, to be used in the defence of the town in case an attack should be made upon it from the sea, containing several pieces of artillery.

This bay is very deep, affording an excellent harbor for any number of vessels.

The town has every natural advantage that a seaport could desire; and if a proper spirit of enterprise prevailed among the inhabitants, it might be made to flourish equal to any other town in the dominions of New Mexico.

Vessels sailing along the coast of the Pacific to the north, all stop here to take in supplies, as it is the last white settlement they pass, until they reach the Russian dominions of the North-West; but as the inhabitants raise no grain only what is used for home consumption; the mariner is only enabled to supply his vessel with meat and water.

There is also a brisk trade carried on in this place with the Sandwich Islands, about nine days sail from this port — and which might be rendered quite lucrative.

Hawaiian Islands

The most of the vessels, however that put into this bay are on fishing expeditions.

The Sperm whales are very numerous in this part of the Pacific ocean — the oil of which affords a profitable reward to all who embark in this dangerous and toilsome business.

On the 29 December, some of our men arrived in St. Joseph, with a portion of the peltries we had collected whilst crossing the mountains, and which we exchanged with Capt. Baggshaw for merchandise, such as groceries and ammunition to do us whilst on our return to Missouri the next summer.

St. Joseph = San Jose Creek, Carmel by the Sea. Who were these men who arrived with a portion of the peltries...could this be Bill Williams finally showing up? 

 After concluding our trade with Captain Baggshaw, and spending the last day of the expiring year on land, we all resolved by invitation, to celebrate New Years day on board the Lagoda, with the Governor and Capt. Baggshaw.

After a 12 day tramp to visit 4 Missions, Captain Walker meets with Captain Bradshaw again & Governor Figueroa

On the morning of the 2d of January 1834, Capt. Baggshaw insisted on us again visiting his vessel, for the purpose of taking a glass, which we gladly accepted, and after shaking hands all round, and affectionately bidding farewell with our friends on board the vessel, returned to land in company with the Governor, when his Excellency offered our Captain a gratuity of a tract of land seven miles square if he would bring 50 families, composed of different kinds of mechanicks, and settle on it.

7 square miles is 31,360 acres which is larger than an American township. Apparently, San Francisco wasn’t for sale.

Capt. Walker was well pleased with the country, and said he had a great mind to accept the Governor's offer, as he had no doubt he could in a few years amass a fortune, and be at the head of a rich and flourishing settlement; but his love for the laws and free institutions of the United States, and his hatred for those of the Spanish Government, deterred him from accepting the Governor's benevolent offer — and we bid farewell to the Governor and his people, well pleased with the reception we had thus far every where met with among the Spaniards.

We now left St. Joseph and returned with our merchandize, consisting principally of groceries, ammunition, &c., to our encampment, where we arrived without meeting with any difficulty; finding everything in good order, and all well except one man named Philips, who was laying in a very precarious state from wounds inflicted by a bear.

We remained at our old encampment near St. Juan, without meeting with any thing to disturb our situation, and on the most friendly intercourse with both Spaniards and Indians, until last night, when six of our best horses were stolen, and which we at first supposed to be the work of Indians.

Who turned out to be Spanish people.

We had heretofore trusted every thing in the fidelity of both the Spaniards and Indians, but when our horses had been thus taken from us we began to keep a sharp look out.

 In the morning (10^th January) several scouting parties were despatched on search of the stolen property, and returned in the evening with only one, after following the trail far into the Spanish settlement, which convinced us immediately that it was not the Indians but the Spaniards who had behaved so dishonorable.

In the following morning Captain Walker went himself to one of the Alcaldes or Esquires for the purpose of enquiring what steps had best be taken to restore our stolen property, or how we could be recompensed.

On having an interview with the magistrate he learned a good many things more than he had formerly known - which was this, that Spaniards, whilst travelling through the country with a poor horse, was at liberty to take a good one if he could find such, no matter who it belonged to, or whether wild or tame, and continue his journey.

Stealing horses is practised more than any other kind of theft, and it is not recognized as a crime, owing, probably, to the cheapness of these animals — as they can be bought at any time for from one to ten dollars.

 Those costing $1 are unbroke fillies, and those for $10 are first rate horses well tamed.

When we became aware that such was the practice of the country, Capt. Walker thought it would be the best plan for us to pack up and leave the neighborhood, in order to avoid a difficulty with a people of a ferocious and wicked nature, at a time too, when we were not very well prepared to contend against such an enemy in their own country.

Captain Walker was real mad!

Accordingly we set about purchasing provision, and the next day we were pretty well supplied with flour, corn, beans, &c.

13^th January. This morning every thing was prepared and we took up our march in an eastern direction.

 We only travelled 12 or 15 miles this day and encamped for the night, which we spent without the occurrence of any thing of importance more than the recalling to mind of the scenes encountered and hardships endured by each of us in our way-faring to this remote corner of the world.

This could be Tres Pinos/three pines.

The two following days (14-15) we continued without interruption in the same direction, and encamped on the banks of a beautiful stream called Sulphur river, where we concluded to remain until in the Spring, when it would be more pleasant travelling eastward to the Rocky mountains.

There is no Sulphur River but there is a Sulphurious Creek.

Our encampment is beautifully located on a rising piece of ground, with a handsome river gliding smoothly along immediately in front, an extensive oat plain stretching out as far as the eye will reach to the rear, and is about 40 miles east of St. Juan.

40 mile camp opens up to the San Joaquin Valley. A hot spring 8 miles west of their camp may be the source of sulfur.  

 The banks of this river are most delightfully shaded with timber, principally oak and elm. The soil in the plain is very strong and deep, producing heavy crops of wild oats and grass — affording excellent pasture for horses, at this season of the year.

After we had made every arrangement necessary to our comfort while we remained here, our men commenced hunting in good style — bear, elk and deer being very plenty, and the fattest we had anywhere met with.

 On the 20^th January, it being a fine day for hunting, a large portion of our sportsmen set out early in the morning bound for a general hunt, and determined to rake the whole prairie.

On the 25^th January Capt. Walker started to Monterey with eight men for the purpose of laying in a larger supply of provision for us on our Journey to the east, in the spring, as we began to reflect that we might fall in with some other companies on the road who would need assistance.

This would also serve as a good cover story

26th January. To-day about 10 o'clock, we discovered a large drove of horses passing through the plain, followed by a few people, whom we supposed to be Spaniards or Indians — but they did not appear to know that we were in the neighborhood, & we were not anxious to let them know it for fear they might travel our way some time.

Seems odd that no sooner does Captain Walker leave camp, someone is out stealing horses.

28th January. To-day a party of Spaniards arrived at our encampment on search of a party of Indians who had eloped from the St. Juan Missionary station, and taken with them 300 head of horses — which we supposed to be the party seen by us on the 26th.

Keep in mind that Walkers camp is 40 miles from Mission San Juan, so there is no way he personally was involved with horse stealing. He also needed 8 men to bring back his 150 animals.

 These men stayed with us all night and the next morning some of our men joined the Spaniards in the chase, who were to get one half of the horses as a compensation for their trouble, if lucky enough to find them.

"If lucky enough to find them" is right considering the horse thieves have a three day head start.

29th January These men followed the Indians to the foot of a large mountain, where they discovered several smokes rising out of the forest along the base of the mountain in a thicket of timber.

From the smoke that arose, they thought the whole Indian force was concentrated, and the Spanish and American force surrounded the spot in battle array, determined to give the offenders a severe chastisement at once.

When all the preparations were made, the word to fire was given. But instead of the lamentations of wounded Indians, and the frantic prancing of frightened horses, nothing but a dead silence answered the discharge of their artillery.

— They then dismounted and went into the thicket, where they found a portion of their horses well butchered, and partly dried and a few old and feeble Indians, with some squaws and children.

So what happen to the so-called Indian force that had stolen the horses and where were the remaining horses? I'll bet Bill Williams knows! Joe Meek stated that the group followed the San Joaquin to it's source and turned southeast to the Colorado River and had about 400 to 500 horses. In March of that year, Ewing Young was on the Colorado River too, which is about 500 miles from 40 mile camp. Doing the math: 500 miles divided by 46 days = about 11 miles per day. 

By way of revenge, after they found that there was no use in following the Indians into the mountain, the Spaniards fell to massacreing, indiscriminately, those helpless creatures who were found in the wigwams with the meat, and cutting off their ears.

This barbarous treatment our men would not permit and they went and released the prisoners, when the Spaniards fell to work and despatched them as if they were dogs.

 When this tragedy was completed they all returned to our encampment on the 31st.

To-day Capt. Walker returned from the settlements well supplied with such articles as he was in need of — bringing with him 100 horses, 47 cow cattle, and 30 or 35 dogs, together with some flour, corn, beans, &c., suitable for our subsistance in the long journey, for which every man was now busily engaged in making preparations.

 Two or three days after Captain Walker returned from this expedition, we were visited by 40 or 50 Spaniards, all well mounted, and each man prepared with a noose, on their way into the neighborhood of wild horses, for the purpose of catching some.

Apparently Walkers camp site was easy to find.

 In this company we found one of the horses which had been stolen from us before we left the settlement.

The Spaniards honorably gave him up after we proved our claim.

 As the manner of taking wild horses was altogether a curiosity to me, I was anxious to see the sport, and accordingly several others and myself joined the Spaniards and accompanied them.

After securing 70 or 80 in this manner, all over this age were turned out, — as they are considered too hard to tame.

On the 12th February we returned to our camp, when Capt. Walker traded with the Spaniards for several of these horses — and in the evening they bid us farewell and continued their homeward journey.

 14th. February. This morning had been appointed for our departure, and accordingly every thing requisite for our comfort was in readiness, and we lazily left our camp for the east - leaving six of our company behind, all of whom are tradesmen, such as carpenters, hatters, &c. where they purposed following their occupations, which will no doubt be profitable to themselves, and of great advantage to the indolent and stupid Spaniard.

Our company was now reduced to 52 men, 315 horses — and for provisions, 47 beef, and 30 dogs, together with a considerable portion of flour, Indian corn, beans, some groceries and a few other articles necessary on such an expedition.

Ok, 58 men less 6 = 52 but later add 2 Spaniards. 45 men were on the Lagoda for Xmas.

 We continued up Sulphur River in an eastern direction, and for the first night encamped on the South side of this stream, after travelling not more than 12 or 15 miles.

This must be the San Joaquin River, as nothing else matches.

15th February. Continued our journey up Sulphur river, passing through a fine country, most of which is prairie, covered plentifully with wild oats and grass.

 After we had encamped this evening, two Spaniards came to our camp bringing with them 25 very fine horses, which they sold to the company, and engaged themselves to accompany us to the buffaloe country.

Wonder who the Spaniards stole their horses from?

They informed us that they had deserted from the Spanish army, and that as it was the second time, if taken now, according to the Spanish military discipline, their punishment would be certain death.

We continued travelling from day to day, the country all the way being of the most enticing nature, soil very strong, timber tolerably plenty, and game in abundance.

The two Spaniards we found to be of great advantage to us, as some of our horses caused us great trouble, and one of the Spaniards being an excellent rider and well acquainted with the art of noosing, would catch and bring together our horses at any time they would become separated.

About the 27th February we arrived at the base of the Calafornia mountain, having past many Indians on our way, and also finding many here.

14 to 27 = 13 days @ 15 = 195 miles

On the 28th we continued our journey to the south along the base of the mountain in search of pasture for our cattle and a convenient pass over the mountain. — Here game is very scarce, owing to the numerous swarms of Indians scattered along in every direction.

On the second of March we killed one of our beef.

Pursued our course, still in a southern direction finding game rather scarce, Indians plenty, pasture improving, and vegetation of every description beginning to grow rapidly — weather showery with warm sun, until the 10th of March, when we arrived at 60 or 70 huts, containing from 250 to 300 Indians.

When we were about leaving these Indians, their chief brought a hearty and good-looking young female to our Captain and proposed to give her in exchange for an ox.

Capt. Walker very prudently declined the offer, telling the chief that we had a great distance to travel, and would probably be without meat half the time.

We travelled along quite comfortably meeting with no unusual occurrence. The country through which we passed still continued as charming as the heart of man could desire. The Indians were quite numerous, some of whom would at times manifest the most unbounded alarm.

We also passed a great number of streams flowing out of the mountain, and stretching afar towards the Pacific. The prairies were most beautifully decorated with flowers and vegetation, interspersed with splendid groves of timber along the banks of the rivers — giving a most romantic appearance to the whole face of nature.

We at length arrived at an Indian village, the inhabitants of which seemed to be greatly alarmed on seeing us, and they immediately commenced gathering up their food and gathering in their horses — but as soon as they discovered that we were white people, they became perfectly reconciled.

After we halted here we found that these people could talk the Spanish language...

These people are seven or eight hundred ...

At about the same time...14 March 1834 Ewing Young while trapping along the Colorado & Gila rivers sends a letter to Abel Stearns that he will be in Pueblo (Los Angeles) in May of 1834. It should be noted that Abel Stearns wrote Thomas Larkin quite often.

14 April 1834 Hall Jackson Kelly arrives in San Diego and sailed north with Captain Bradshaw on the Lagoda to San Pedro to visit with Abel Stearns and Ewing Young...by June 1834 Kelly was in Monterey meeting with Thomas Larkin.

It gets even better...While in San Diego, in July, 1834, Governor Figueroa wrote a report to Mexico City warning the Government against a " 'clique of conceited and ignorant men' who were plotting to separate California from Mexico, and as a means to that end would do all in their power through their representative Juan Bandini, to secure a separation of the military and civil commands." He declared that any such change would be "'the germ of eternal discord,' as there was not a single Californian even tolerably qualified for the Office."

8 August 1834 Ewing Young  arrives in Monterey. Another fun fact is that in 1840 Abel Stearns married Juan Bandini's 14 year old daughter Arcadia.

 We passed one night with these Indians, during which time they informed us of an accessible passage over the mountain.

 In the morning we resumed our journey, hiring two of these Indians as pilots, to go with us across the mountain - continued all day without any interruption, and in the evening encamped at the foot of the passover.

North Walker Pass

In a newspaper article published on March 17, 1860, John Shannon [editor] of the Visalia Weekly Delta stated:

 On Wednesday, Colonel Walker and company, consisting of thirteen men, also left Visalia. They procured their outfit here. The intention of Col. Walker is to leave the road a short distance south of Tule river and cross the heads of the Southern branches of that river, striking Kern river above the cañon about fifty miles from Keyesville, opposite Owens Lake. The Col. passed through this route the first time in the fall of 1834, and again on the first of March, 1835…

Joe Walker returned to California in March of 1835…this is something new!

This is about the time he picked up an Indian wife.

In the morning we continued up the mountain in an eastern direction, and encamped this evening at the lower end of the snow.

 The next day we found the snow more plenty, and encamped without grass of any kind.

 We now began to apprehend hard times again. Our horses no longer resumed their march in the mornings with a playful cheerfulness, but would stumble along and go just when their riders would force them to do so.

We continued travelling in this way for four days when we landed safely on the opposite side of the mountain, in a temperate climate, and among tolerable pasture, which latter was equally as gratifying to our horses as the former was to the men.

We here made our pilots presents of a horse, some tobacco, and many trifling trinkets captivating to the eye of an Indian, when they left us to return to their friends.

Our horses and cattle were pretty much fatigued, but not as much as we anticipated. The country on this side is much inferior to that on the opposite side — the soil being thin and rather sandy, producing but little grass, which was very discouraging to our stock, as they now stood in great want of strong feed. On the opposite side vegetation had been growing for several weeks — on this side, it has not started yet.

After discharging our pilots we travelled a few miles and encamped at some beautiful springs, where we concluded to spend the remainder of the day, in order to give our horses and cattle rest.

Our Capt. here concluded on following the base of the mountain to the north until we would come to our trail when crossing to the west, or California.

This is important to remember

May 2nd. This morning we resumed our journey, every man possessed of doubtful apprehensions as to the result of this determination, as the hardships which we encountered in this region on a former occasion, were yet fresh in the minds of many of us. The country we found to be very poor, and almost entirely destitute of grass.

 We continued through this poor country travelling a few miles every day, or as far as the weakened state of our dumb brutes would admit of. The weather was mostly clear and otherwise beautiful, but we had quite a cold wind most all the time.

Travelling along the eastern base of this (Calafornia) mountain, we crossed many small rivers flowing towards the east, but emptying into lakes scattered through the plain, or desert, where the water sinks and is exhausted in the earth. This plain extends from here to the Rocky mountains, being an almost uninterrupted level, the surface of which is covered with dry, loose sand.

In this manner we travelled along, passing such scenes as are described above, until at length we arrived at some springs which presented a really remarkable appearance, and may be called boiling, or more properly Steam Springs, situated near the base of the mountain, on or near the banks of a small river. These springs are three in number, and rise within a short distance of each other, one being much larger than the other two.

The water constantly boils as if it was in a kettle over a fire, and is so hot that if a piece of meat is put under the water at the fountainhead, it will cook in a few minutes, emitting a strong, sulphurous smell — the water also tastes of sulphur.

In a clear morning the steam or smoke rising from these springs may be seen a great distance as it hangs in the air over the springs, similar to a dense sheet of fog. There is not a spear of vegetation growing within several rods of the spot, and the surface of the ground presents the appearance of one solid piece of crust, or hard baked mud. When the water empties in and mixes with the river water, it leaves an oily substance floating on the surface similar to tar or grease of any kind.

About the 25th of May, we again continued our journey, but our difficulties had been multiplying for some time, until now we found them quite formidable. — The principal part of our present difficulties arose from the scarcity of pasture for our horses and cattle. After travelling the best way we could, for a few days towards the North, we arrived at another beautiful sandy plain, or desert, stretching out to the east far beyond the reach of the eye, as level as the becalmed surface of a lake. We occasionally found the traces of Indians, but as yet, we have not been able to gain an audiance with any of them, as they flee to the mountain as soon as we approach. Game being very scarce, our cattle poor, gives us very indifferent living.

Our direct course, after reaching the eastern base of this mountain, would have been a north east direction, but we were apprehensive of perishing for water in crossing this extensive desert — which would doubtless be the fate of any traveller who would undertake it, when it is recollected that it extends from the base of the Rocky mountains to this mountain, a distance of several hundred miles. This being the case we were obliged to pass along the base of the mountain in a northern direction, until we would arrive at the point where we ascended the mountain when going to the coast, and then follow the same trail east towards the Rocky mountains, or Great Salt Lake, where we expected to meet the company we had left at the latter place. Travelling along the mountain foot, crossing one stream after another, was any thing but pleasant. Day after day we travelled in the hope each day of arriving at the desired point when we would strike off in a homeward direction. Every now and then some of the company would see a high peak or promontory, which he would think was seen by the company on a former occasion, but when we would draw near to it our pleasing anticipations would be turned into despondency; and at one time, about the middle of May, our Captain was so certain that he could see a point in the distance, which he had distinctly marked as a guide on our former tramp, that he ordered the men to prepare for leaving the mountain: — this also proved to be the result of imagination only.

The next morning our Captain, thinking the desert not very wide at this point, decided on striking across in a north-eastern direction, which would shorten our route considerably, if we could only be so successful as to surmount the difficulties of travelling through loose sand, without water, (as the streams descending from the mountain into the plain all sink.)

On the 16th of May, every thing necessary for our dry tramp being in readiness, we started across the plain, which was done with a willing heart by almost every man, as we were all anxious to get home, and had been travelling many days without getting any nearer. The travelling in the plain, after passing the termination of the streams, we found to be extremely laborious. The sand lays quite loose, and as the wind would blow whilst driving our horses and cattle ahead of us, the sand would be raised up in such clouds that we could scarcely see them, which was very painful to our eyes. The first night in the plain we encamped at a large hole or well dug deep in the ground, which we supposed to be the work of Indians, and in which we found a small portion of stagnant water, but not half enough to slake the thirst of our numerous herd.

The next morning we resumed our toilsome march at an early hour, finding our stock suffering greatly for the want of water. This day we travelled with as much speed as possible, with the hope of finding water whereat to encamp; but at length night arrived, and the fatigues of the day obliged us to encamp without water, wood or grass. The day had been excessively warm, except when the wind would blow, and in the afternoon two of our dogs died for want of water. On examination we found that the feet of many of our dumb brutes were completely crippled by the sand.

Our situation at present seemed very critical. A dull, gloomy aspect appeared to darken the countenance of every member of the company. We were now completely surrounded with the most aggravating perplexities — having travelled two long day's journey into the plain and no idea how far yet to its termination, and from the manifestations of many of our most valuable stock, we were well convinced they could not endure these hardships much longer. To add vexation to our present difficulties, a violent altercation took place between the men as to whether we would proceed in our present direction, or turn back to the mountain. — A majority of the men were in favour of the latter, but Capt. Walker, who never done any thing by halves, with a few others, were of the opinion that we were half way across, and could as easily proceed as return. On all such disputes, on all former occasions, the majority decided on what steps should be taken; but when our Captain was in the minority, and being beloved by the whole company, and being a man also who was seldom mistaken in any thing he undertook, the men were very reluctant in going contrary to his will. The dispute created much confusion in our ranks; but fortunately, about midnight the Captain yielded to the wishes of his men, and as it was cool, and more pleasant travelling than in the day time, we started back towards the mountain, intending to follow the same trail, in order which we encamped on plain.

Previous to starting, we took the hides off our dead cattle and made a kind of moccasin for such of our beasts as were lame, which we found to be of great advantage, as it effectually shielded their feet from the scouring effects of the sand.

Nothing happened through the night, and we moved carelessly along our trail, as we thought; but our feelings cannot be described at daylight when no signs of our former tracks could be discovered. Men were despatched in every direction on search, but all returned without any tidings with which to comfort our desponding company. The compass told which direction we should go, but otherwise we were completely bewildered. Our horses, cattle and dogs were almost exhausted this morning. The pitiful lamentations of our dogs were sufficient to melt the hardest heart. The dumb brutes suffered more for water than food, and these dogs, when death threatened to seize them, would approach the men, look them right in the face with the countenances of a distracted person, and if no help could be afforded, would commence a piteous and lamentable howl, drop down and expire. When the day became warm we slackened our pace, and moved slowly forward, but without any hope of meeting with any water at least for a day longer. When night came we halted for a short time in order to collect the men and animals together, which were scattered in every direction for a mile in width, lest we should get separated at night, as we intended to travel on without ceasing until we would find water or arrive at the mountain.

When our forces collected together, we presented a really forlorn spectacle. At no time, either while crossing the Rocky or Calafornia mountains, did our situation appear so desperate. We had to keep our dumb brutes constantly moving about on their feet, for if they would once lay down it would be impossible to get them up again, and we would then be compelled to leave them. Nor were the men in a much better condition. It is true, we had food, but our thirst far exceeded any description. At last it became so intense, that whenever one of our cattle or horses would die the men would immediately catch the blood and greedily swallow it down.

When our men had collected together, and rested their wearied limbs a little, our journey was resumed, finding that the cattle and horses travelled much better at night than in daylight. We advanced rapidly this eve-ning without any interruption, until about midnight, when our horses became unmanageable, and contrary to our utmost exertions would go in a more northern direction than we desired. After several ineffectual attempts to check them, we thought perhaps it would be well enough to follow wherever they would lead. We had not followed our horses far until we discovered, to our indescribable joy, that the instinct of our horses was far more extensive and more valuable than all the foresight of the men, as we, unawares, came suddenly upon a beautiful stream of fresh water.

We now had the greatest trouble to keep our beasts from killing themselves drinking water - in which we succeeded only in part, and were thus occupied until daylight, when we counted our force for the purpose of ascertaining how much loss we sustained by undertaking to cross the desert, and found that we had lost 64 horses, 10 cows, and 15 dogs.

In order to get something to eat for our stock, and also to keep them from drinking too much water, we left this stream which had afforded such delight, before either the men or beasts had time to repose their wearied limbs. After travelling a few miles this morning we had the good luck to come across tolerable pasture and plenty of wood and water. Here we determined on staying until the next morning, for the purpose of resting our wearied stock.

This desert which had presented such an insurmountable barrier to our route, is bounded on the east by the Rocky mountains, on the west by the Calafornia mountain, on the North by the Columbia river, and on the south by the Red, or Colorado river. These two mighty rivers rise in the Rocky mountains adjacent to each other, and as the former flows in a N. W. and the latter in a southern direction, forms this plain in the shape of the letter A. — There are numerous small rivers rising in either mountain, winding their way far towards the centre of the plain, where they are emptied into lakes or reservoirs, and the water sinks in the sand. Further to the North where the sand is not so deep and loose, the streams rising in the spurs of the Rocky and those descending from the Calafornia mountains, flow on until their waters at length mingle together in the same lakes.

The Calafornia mountain extends from the Columbia to the Colorado river, running parallel with the coast about 150 miles distant, and 12 or 15 hundred miles in length with its peaks perpetually covered with eternal snows. There is a large number of water courses descending from this mountain on either side — those on the east side stretching out into the plain, and those on the west flow generally in a straight course until they empty into the Pacific; but in no place is there a water course through the mountain.

 When Ewing Young arrived in Oregon in November of 1834 John McLoughlin the factor at Fort Vancouver had received a letter from Governor Jose Figueroa that Young's men were horse thieves and had taken 200 head.

Over View of trip

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